Modern usage of the Irish language: BláthInis Garden Centre. Photo by Imeallach on Flickr. All rights reserved by Imeallach.

Irish is a “small” language. It’s not dominant in its own country of Ireland. But it has had a huge underlying effect on Ireland’s modern culture, and you can spot its influence further afield, to where the Irish have travelled across the (Anglo) world. It’s alive, and getting stronger. Let’s get some thing cleared up!

1. You might call it “Irish Gaelic”. We simply call it “Irish”.

First, when speaking in the language, the language is referred to as “An Ghaeilge“. When referring to the language when speaking in English, the Irish simply call it “Irish”. It is universally recognised as such, and there’s no need for a qualifier like “Gaelic”.

You can keep calling it Irish Gaelic if you like, if you already do. But if visiting Ireland, just refer to it as Irish. You’ll also see references to simply “Gaelic” when the Iish language is meant. This is where it gets a bit controversial. Rather, the Irish when referring to “Gaelic” generally (but not strictly…) mean Scottish Gaelic.

2. Irish is a Celtic language

Irish is closely related to Manx (Gaelg/Gailck) and Scottish Gaelic (Gàidhlig). For example, written Scottish Gaelic is quite comprehensible for an Irish speaker. Other Celtic languages include Welsh, Cornish and Breton. I won’t go into any more details here, you can read more elsewhere.

3. It sounds like this

“Thank you” = “Go raibh maith ‘ad“

The recording above is a native Connemara speaker, thanks to Irish-Sayings.com recordings.

You should also definitely check out TG4 television and Radió na Gaeltachta.

4. The language is alive

There are small communities in the Gaeltacht where Irish is the dominant language. There are Gaeltachtaí, for example, in Connemara (Co. Galway), Co. Donegal and Co. Kerry. The language is taught to all school kids. It has a national TV station, and a dedicated radio station. You’ll see it on most of our road signs, and on our coins.

Roads signs in An Cheathrú Rua, Connemara. Copyright GaeltachtTravel.com.

But it’s far from the dominant language in Ireland
Don’t be under any illusions. The colonial English did all the right things for the survival of their language in Ireland, it seems, because it has permeated every part of Irish daily culture, including society’s mentality. English is the societal language of Ireland. If you walk into a shop just about anywhere, English is the assumed language of communication.

5. Shh! There’s a quiet language revolution happening

The Irish language has been through some tough times. And its traditional reach is unfortunately shrinking by the year. For example, 40 years ago you could have only ordered a pint on the Aran Islands by pointing if you didn’t speak Irish. But now, even there, a substantial percentage of people don’t speak it daily.

However! The Internet age has really seen a new life to the language. It feels that some of the old stigma related to it has faded away. Its influence is also rising in urban areas - of note is Belfast’s Gaeltacht Quarter. I think its real strength is shaking its old stigma held by its own people, along with a strong international community of speakers and learners who are connected through the Internet. Check out a collection of Irish language videos on YouTube.

1. Ceann Sléibhe, Co. Chiarraí

Slea Head, Co. Kerry which is the tip of the Corca Dhuibne/Dingle Peninsula. It’s one of my favourite places in Ireland, and I recommened Feirm Chinn Sléibhe if you’re looking for a room with this view!

"Slea Head" by deckchair.

2. Dún Chaoin, Co. Chiarraí

This is just down the road from the previous picture. The sheep wander around and can be quite curious!

Stappestappestap by _martijn.

3. An Bun Beag, Co. Dún na nGall.

Co. Donegal features some of the wildest landscapes in Ireland, but is also home to many small fishing ports. At those ports, you can grab fabulous fresh fish meals in the local restaurants.

Bunbeg Harbour by rakkar.

4. Gleann Cholm Cille, Co. Dún na nGall

Home of the Oideas Gael language school, the region in Co. Donegal is named after St. Colm Cille. The area is culture-rich, with strong musical traditions.

So, mom by random letters

5. Corca Dhuibne, Co. Chiarraí

Another picture of the beautiful Dingle Peninsula in Co. Kerry.

Think Green by ktylerconk (off to the West Coast)

6. Corca Dhuibhne

Apart from the sheep’s curiosity, look at those rolling hill in the background across the bay. One of the many views along the Dingle Peninsula.

The Pied Piper Of Sheep by Kman999.

7. More Ceann Sléibhe

OK, one last Dingle Peninsula for good measure :)

Gate and Slea Head - 1 by Kman999.

8. Conamara, Co. na Gaillimhe

Conamara (”Connemara”) in Co. Galway often features very brown, barren landscape. This is the largest Gaeltacht in the country, and has a strong Irish-language community. Much of the Irish-based business world is based here.

Picture perfect by elusive_fish.

9. Conamara

Film_e_010_7A by Kai Mengel.

10. Inis Mór, Na hOileáin Árann

The Aran Islands of the Galway and Clare coast are three Irish-speaking islands. Inis Mór, featured here, is the biggest of the islands. Inis Meán, the middle island, is the least populated of the three, which is why I’d suggest you’d visit there!

Aran Islands - Inishmore by FasterDix.

OK, let’s have a bonus! 11. Distant view of Na hOileáin Árann

The photographer here is standing in the Burren, Co. Clare which is not a Gaeltacht region (but the language is relatively strong there, still). In the background you can see the Aran Island. The Burren is a unique limestone landscape, and features a national park.

Sunset in the Burren by anjouwu.

If you want to suggest more beautiful images, why not leave a comment.

To learn the language of Ireland, surf on over to LearnIrishGaelic.com.

We have something special and unique for you. Would you like images of the beautiful landscapes of the Gaeltacht regions of Ireland on your wall? We have created a PDF calendar for you to print at home. And it’s all for free, and no registration required.

Download your free PDF 2009 Gaeltacht Calendar. (PDF link)
File size: 7MB

The calendar features stunning photos of Conamara and the Dingle Peninsula.

The calendar is also bilingual. So use to familiarise yourself with the Irish language words for the days of the week and for the names of the months!

The calendar is free to download. The file and photos are Copyright GaeltachtTravel.com. The PDF may be redistributed, but may not be modified or distributed in part. Direct links to the PDF document are not permitted, please link to this post instead.

Boats on the Donegal coast. Copyright GaeltachtTravel.com.

What is An Ghaeltacht?

An Ghaeltacht (”The Gaeltacht”) covers all regions in Ireland which are officially recognised to be mainly Irish-speaking areas. More generally, Gaeltacht (plural Gaeltachtaí) is a word in the Irish language to describe any region where Irish (Irish Gaelic) is the main lanauge. Special funding is available for these areas, and the definition of the areas has evolved over decades. Download our free 2009 Gaeltacht calendar.

The Gaeltacht Regions

The Gaeltacht regions are generally scattered along the west coast of Ireland, plus a small Gaeltacht in the south-east in County Waterford, and a Gaeltacht in County Meath. These regions cover some of the most breath-taking landscapes of the island of Ireland. We’ve got great info and photos on all of the Gaeltacht regions in Ireland, along with Gaeltacht accommodation:

• Dún na nGall // Donegal
• Gaillimh // Galway
• Maigh Eo // Mayo
• Ciarraí // Kerry
• Corcaigh // Cork
• An Mí // Meath
• Port Lairge // Waterford

Travel Tips for Ireland

Food, accommodation, pubs and transport.

Gaeltacht and Irish Language Statistics

The main street of An Daingean. Copyright GaeltachtTravel.com.

Dingle, An Daingean? It doesn’t matter, because it’s really Daingean Uí Chúis, a really special introduction to the beautiful Corca Dhuibhne or the Dingle Peninsula.

Though Gaeilge (the Irish language) won’t real be heard on the streets of An Daingean, the town is now officially called that after a dispute over the name a few years ago. As An Daingean is the starting point for exploring the peninsula, there’s a wide variety of accommodation to choose from. Benners Hotel or Dingle Skellig Hotel will satisfy a more demanding guest, but there are also numerous family run, warm and friendly B&Bs and guest houses.

Explore Dingle Peninsula in a way that suits you!

The best ways to explore Corca Dhuibhne when you only have a day or two would be renting a car and drive the narrow roads.

For more adventurous with three or four days to spare, cycling would be ideal. The distances between villages are just right for Sunday cyclists and a few climbs along the way are only there to keep you grounded when your mind drifts away with the beautiful images of the scenery. There are a few rent-a-bike’s in An Daingean with reasonable prices, not very easy to find, but the service is great.

For those who decide to dedicate even more time to exploring the place, hiking would be the right choice. You can find many organized hikes and walks online.

Where to stay in Daingean Uí Chúis (Dingle)

Whichever way you chose to travel accommodation is easy to find. Every town or village in Corca Dhubhne has one or more B&Bs or guesthouses to offer. Torann na d’Tonn Bed & Breakfast, Seaside Haven Bed & Breakfast, The Plough Bed & Breakfast and The Plough Bed & Breakfast are located in Caenn Trá (Ventry). Further down the road there is a lovely family run farmhouse-B&B - Feirm Chinn Sléibhe (Slea Head Farm) with stunning views over the Blasket Islands, the reminder of the gaelic Ireland as it used to be.

In Dún Chaoin (Dunquin) you can stay in De Mórdha B&B, Gleann Dearg B&B or Tiaracht B&B. An Spéice B&B will accommodate you in Baile an Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter) and An Dooneen and Coill an Róis B&Bs will take care of you in Baile na nGall (Ballydavid).

A boat in An Daingean (Dingle), Co. Kerry Gaeltacht. Copyright GaeltachtTravel.com.

For 30 years, the sign on the road into Dingle has said “An Daingean”. This is an Irish version of the town’s name. A fuller name is “Daingean Uí Chúis”, and yet another is “An Daingean Mór”. “Daingean” mean fort. A debate began in 2005, as a new law passed that only the Irish version of placenames would be used within the Gaeltacht (where Irish is officially spoken). Many locals wanted to keep the name “Dingle”, as much of the locality relies on tourism and they hold great value in the brand “Dingle”. But in my opinion, this is very shortsighted, as the town should embrace its status as being an Irish language town.

Don and Margaret have written a nice account including photos of their trip around this area.

The Irish Language

You won’t hear much Irish spoken in the town, despite its Irish-speaking status. Chances are you won’t hear a word. However, it’s still being spoken in the privacy of many locals’ home, and you might hear the ould lads speak it in the local pub. If you’re booking a local B&B, I suggest that you first ask if the family is Irish speaking. If you want to hear the Irish language, drive out further down the peninsula to places such at Baile an Fhéirtearaigh.

An Daingean, Dingle: The Town

An Daingean is both a tourist hot-spot and a local fishing village. Many small boats operate out of the town’s port, and you can wander up the pier to see the men at work. While you’re wandering around, grab yourself a traditional “fish and chip”.

Dingle Accommodation

One thing is for sure, accommodation is not hard to come by in Dingle. However, prices and availability will vary according to the season. For a selection of hotel, B&B and guesthouse accommodation in Dingle, please see our Dingle accommodation listings.

Bike Hire

I’d love to recommend Paddy’s Bike Hire on Dykegate lane for bike hire in Dingle. The man is a gent, and will provide you with sturdy new bikes. I have rented from here twice over two years. He even said to call him if you get a puncture, and he will drive out to help you out.

The rules of the road are always respected in Ireland ;). Copyright GaeltachtTravel.com.

Renting a car in Ireland is a pretty typical experience, as the business of car hire is a globalised business. Tourists expect the same services whatever country they visit.

Eight things you need to know about renting a car in Ireland

1. Traffic drives on the left of the road.
2. At roundabouts and junctions (intersections) the traffic to your right has right of way.
3. Seat belts must be worn by everyone in the car.
4. Road signs give prominence to the town names instead of road numbers.
5. Road signs display both the English and Irish language names of towns. The Irish version is in italics, and below is the English version in capitals.
6. Road signs in the Gaeltacht are in Irish only. They do not necessarily mention the town’s English name. Have a good up-to-date map handy, making sure that it displays the placenames in the Irish language as well as in English.
7. Speed limits and distance are shown in kilometers, and unit of distance is stated (e.g. “Ennis 20km”). However, older distance signs are in miles and do not state unit of distance (e.g. “Ennis 20″).
8. We’ll admit that Irish roads aren’t great. Some are both narrow and fast, therefore always careful!

Where to hire a car in Ireland

You’ll typically be arriving at an Irish airport such as Dublin Airport, Cork Airport or Shannon Airport. Car hire spots are prominently located in the arrivals hall.

A note of caution! Depending on the car hire company in Ireland, you may be asked to provide credit card security. This security is a certain fee (such at EUR1000) and is held on your card until the car is returned. Be very cautious of this, making sure that the security fee doesn’t take you too close to your credit limit.

Facts about the Origin(s) of Irish

The Irish language, also known as Irish Gaelic, or simply “Irish” in Ireland, is a member of the Goidelic group of the Celtic subfamily of the Indo-European family of languages. The history of Irish as a literary language falls into three periods: Old Irish (7th–9th century A.D.), Middle Irish (10th–16th century), and Modern Irish (since the 16th century). (Lehman, An Introduction to Old Irish, 1975)

Irish and her sister languages, Welsh and Breton, are among the oldest living languages in Europe. Written records go back to the early Christian period.

The Celtic language we now know as Irish came to Ireland before 300 BC. The first evidence of writing in Irish can be found in the markings on commemorative stones known as Ogham. Ogham was a way of writing names using notches or strokes. Only when Christianity was well established in the 5th Century did true literacy in Irish begin. Using Roman lettering, Irish monks wrote little poems or phrases in the margins of manuscripts. Many of those manuscripts, such as the Book of Kells, still exist today. The coming of Christianity and, with it, Latin brought many new terms to Irish, especially those concerning literacy and religious life. (BBC Website)

The Life of the Language

Around the 6th century AD the Irish people strengthened their political, military and economic position. It was therefore not surprising that the Irish language also gained strength and was spreading eastwards and northwards across Scotland. Three centuries later the language conquered most of Scotland, Northern Britain and the Isle of Man. When the Vikings (mainly from the modern-day areas of Denmark and Norway) started invading the area where Irish had been spoken they hit a cultural obstacle more powerful than the swords. It’s also a fact that they weren’t very kind to the native inhabitants (including the monks with their sought-after possessions). And it should not be overlooked that the Normans were the people who played a major political, military and cultural role in the northern and Mediterranean parts of medieval Europe for centuries and whose origins were in Scandinavia.

By the time of the Norman invasion of England, most Normans derived from the indigenous populations of eastern Brittany and western Flanders, but their lords retained a memory of their own Viking origins. The Hiberno-Normanswere the Norman lords who settled in Ireland. They weren’t very loyal to the Normans in England. They spoke Norman-French or English, but were small in numbers and had friendly relations with the Irish natives. In fact, it should be noted that the Normans of Ireland quickly assimilated into the Irish-speaking world and left a notable mark on Irish language, culture and everyday life. Many modern-day words in Irish originate from Norman influence. The integration of Normans also influenced the development of different dialects.

From the time of the Norman invasion in Ireland, the English language was spoken only in the area around Dublin. Outside this area, which was known as The Pale, the native culture and society blossomed until the Tudor period.

Map of the Gaeltacht: The official Irish speaking areas of Ireland.

Image source: “Angr” on Wikipedia.org under the GNU Free Documentation License.

The Sore Point

The history of relations between Ireland and England is complex and mostly biased, like the history of every nation, to be honest. However it has to be mentioned that the Irish language never had the status it deserved. Like most of the peoples of Europe, who throughout the history didn’t get the chance to create their own nation states, the Irish lived under the rule of a sovereign who did not share the same traditions, norms, religion, culture or language. To make the empires more stable, the sovereigns tried to unify them. What better way to do that than prohibit the far most crucial factor of ethnical identity – the language.

The use of the Irish language was prohibited until 1871, while the English language was being enforced. It’s a long time of repression that even the languages of stronger nations wouldn’t survive. Ireland was also struck by several natural and, consequently, economic misfortunes that led to social collapse and extensive migration. Of most note is the Great Famine of 1845-1848.

However, the past is in the past and one should not dwell on it. The fact is that the Irish held their faith in their own hands, but somehow, they let the language slipthrough their fingers. But not completely.

The Irish Language Today - Facts and Figures

Percentage of Irish speakers in Ireland.

Today, Irish is the first official language in the Republic of Ireland. Since 1 January 2007 it is also an official language of the European Union. Notably, it’s the only official language of the EU that is not the most widely spoken language in any member state.

According to census figures from 2002, released by Central Statistics Office of Ireland (CSO, cso.ie), on the night of Sunday, 28 April 2002, there was 1,570,894 Irish speakers in the country as opposed to 2,180,101 Non-Irish speakers. An Irish speaker is defined as a person who claims that they can speak Irish, but who do not necessarily use it in their daily life. The largest number of Irish speakers live in Leinster (511,639), followed by Munster (352,177), Connacht (162,680) and the three counties of Ulster which are in the Republic (69,334). However the percentage of Irish speakers is the lowest in Leinster (38.2%), the highest in Connacht and Munster (48.5% and 46.8% respectively).

Number of Irish speakers in Ireland.

Surprisingly the largest percentage of people with ability to speak Irish is in the age groups between 10 and 24 years of age (10-14 years: 68.7%; 15- 19 years: 66.3%; 20-24 years: 51.2%), probably because of the obligatory teaching of Irish in schools.

Number of Irish Speakers in the Gaeltacht

More interesting are percentages of Irish speakers in the Gaeltacht regions. In all Gaeltachtaí 72.6% are fluent in Irish (62,157 people).

County Cork’s Gaeltacht represents 2,809 people with ability to speak Irish, is 83.1% of population there.

16,964 Irish speakers live in the Gaeltacht of County Donegal (74.9% of people living the official Irish-speaking areas).

County Galway’s Gaeltacht (mainly Conamara) gives home to 21,171 Irish speakers, 78.3% of the total Gaeltacht population.

County Kerry’s rugged weather hasn’t swept away 6,243 people in the Gaeltacht, who insist on speaking Irish, 76.7% of all of Kerry Gaeltacht weather warriors.

7,050 Irish speakers have settled in the Gaeltacht of County Mayo and live in peace with 32.9% of population that doesn’t have the ability to speak Irish.

There’s only 906 people able to speak Irish in the Gaeltacht of County Meath, still a share of 60.6% of An Ghaeltacht population.

County Waterford has only 100 more Irish speakers (1006) in the Gaeltacht, which is 77.7% of the population of the Irish speaking area.

Will Gaeltachtaí rescue the Irish language and bring it back from oblivion? If we compare the figures to those of Limerick City, where only 42.1% of the population over 3 years of age is able to speak Irish, or look at disgraceful figures of Dublin City (34.6%). Realistically one would say it’s too late. But not everybody has given up on the language and not everybody prefers English, because (like) everybody in the world (like) understands you (like).

The future of the language may in fact rely on the urban communities of Irish speakers in the larger cities. The past decade has brought a new vibrancy to the Irish speaking community. Of special note is Belfast in Northern Ireland, where there are strong efforts to create Irish-speaking communities there.

Even our attempt here to grasp the history of the Irish language is unfortunately written in a language officially subordinate to Irish in Ireland. However, it is also an attempt to reach further and, facing facts, English has the ability to do so, if you have read this far.

Irish has an advantage that it is popular abroad, however it has a major disadvantage: it’s not very popular on its native soil. It still lives, despite the fact that it has a status of endangered language in the Republic of Ireland, and officially extinct in Northern Ireland.

Transport in Ireland! Driving in Co. Kerry. Copyright GaeltachtTravel.com.

Relying on the public transport in Ireland to get around may not be the wisest thing to do! Here are a couple of suggestions on getting around.

Car Rental in Ireland

Maybe the handiest method of traveling in Ireland but also one of the more expensive options. You will be paying more than EUR200 for a week’s rent, and perhaps considerably more.

For more information, read our post on Car Hire in Ireland.

Public Transport

Buses run regularly between the main towns and cities. Some train lines also operate. In the cities, you will find city buses. If you want my advice, don’t solely rely on these to travel the country. Having said that, the buses do go to many tourist destinations as in villages and small towns which maybe helpful for you.

Taxis

Any town of a population of more than 10,000 should have a good number of taxi cabs. Also expect them at airports and bus stations. You must find the taxi ranks, and you’ll spot taxis by the yellow bar mounted on the roof.

Hackney cabs must be telephoned to collect you. Ask the locals if they know the telephone number for a hackney company.

Pricewise, you can pay EUR5-EUR10 for cross-town fare. Ask before you begin the journey.

Bicycles

You will find bike rental in any town with a flow of tourists. You’ll get to see some of the local countryside. Beware of bad weather which occurs occasionally :) in Ireland. Cycling through the wind and rain may not be to everybody’s liking.

Lovely day for a Guinness. Killarney, Co. Kerry. Copyright GaeltachtTravel.com.

It seems that any village in Ireland, no matter how small, will have at least 3 pubs (public houses).

Drinks in Irish Pubs

It goes without saying that you’ll find Guinness in every single pub in Ireland. But we have other drinks that you’ll have heard of I’m sure like Budweiser, Heineken and Fosters. Then there’s the whiskies, vodkas and all that along with alcoholic fruit drinks and cider. Beers are sold in pints (just more than half a litre) and also smaller bottles.

I’m told some people have a misconception that us Irish drink hot beer. Never! All drinks are served cold. Then there’s the usual Coke and Pepsi and pubs will serve tea and coffee during the day.

Soda

An American told me that our sodas aren’t half as fizzy as those in America. Also watch out for our lemonade though - it’s fizzy. I believe the American lemonade is flat, more natural. You can even try some red lemonade.

Legal Drinking Age

You have to be 18 years old to be served alcohol in Ireland. Younger people might be asked for age ID.

Closing Time

Pubs will serve until 11.30pm on Monday to Thursday, until 12.30am on Friday and Saturday, and 11.30pm on Sunday. These times are subject to change, as the governing law is changed quite often. If you’re in a rural pub, every chance is they’ll still be serving well past the official time.

Music

The more traditional pubs will might have a band playing traditional Irish music, or else singing “rebel songs”. These songs are quite anti-British. All the same, I saw a British crowd dancing away to the songs, so there aren’t any hard feelings. You’ll have to ask around to find out which pubs will have traditional music.

You can read some funny info about pub etiquette and Irish music at Ireland for beginners.

Pubs which are aiming for the younger market will be playing pop or dance music. Some have a DJ at night, others just play CDs.